The land of the three lakes
In Locarno in 1925 was signed the infamous Covenant – one of the fatal mistakes that led to the second world war, into Fat overthrown Mussolini created puppet “Republic”, in Cadenabbia every summer vacationing German Chancellor Adenauer. Politicians in all times attracted three Italian lakes-Garda, Como and Maggiore-with their historic villas, luxurious hotels and picturesque landscapes.
Every summer, 2.5 million tourists “voting with their feet” for the lake district in the North of Italy. They are waiting for tens of thousands of places in local hotels and guesthouses, green mountain slopes and bottomless expanse of the lakes: Garda – 346 m, Lago Maggiore – 372 m, Como – 410 m. Water, according to homeopaths, has a memory: it retains the properties of the dissolved substance, even if the trace is already gone.
A sweet trail of scent power stretches over these areas. Molecule of Winston Churchill, the atom Henry Kissinger, left on Villa D ‘ este (lake Como). Bit of world domination canned on Isola Bella (lake Maggiore) is furnished with Empire style furnishings, the count’s Palace, Napoleon spent the night.
Now we proudly March on this Palace, lifting the head under the dome of the Great hall (23 meters above the Sistinechapel) and reflected in the mirrors of a Suite of rooms. Or in shorts and sneakers hanging around the polished marble promenade the Fat, and in the evening spoil yourself with a cocktail at the Romantik Hotel Laurin. Once Mussolini took him under his “foreign Ministry”. And now we sit here – under tall, inside the Cathedral, the arches, front is embellished with swirls porcelain and glass glowing in the candles caps – their flame sways the winds from lake Garda. Sit down and try mouth-watering rolls with eel and mushrooms in lemon marinade, risotto with shrimp and saffron, fillets and millefiori with berries. Sipping white wine, continue to ponder: what captivates us in this region?
Mirror water? The height and breadth, transcending the limits of the soul? Crater lakes, which sucks in all the beauty that descends from heaven? Or steep Bank, clutching at the North of lake Garda in the likeness of the fjord?
Over this land the spirit soars Alessandro Volta, born in Como. In 1800 he invented the electric battery, the so-called Voltaic pile-the first source of direct current. Perhaps this is the reason – in some mysterious, hidden force fields here?
On the lakes we sail on catamarans, surf boards, double-Decker ferries. Past the restaurants on the quays and yellow houses with Wisteria on the balcony, past the cypress groves on the steep cliffs. Drivers of boats chanting sonorous names: “Brissago! Tremezzo! Riva del Garda!”. So butlers at Royal feasts was notified of the arrival of distinguished guests. And we blissfully recline on the seat backs.
In the nineteenth century, another fan of these places – the philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche, wrote that beauty is a “high strength”, fun – it ’s a symptom of the feeling of attained power” and even absorption of food expresses “will to power”. On lake Garda the most hardened Democrat becomes a descendant of Roman patricians and majestically begins to look at the surroundings from the table on the outdoor terrace of the café.
He sees the Venetian castle on top of a cliff Rocchetta. Before him misted glass of wine, somewhere we hear the gentle sounds of the Aria. He casts a grateful look at the mosaic-tiled roofs of Riva, where Nietzsche stayed and tanned Rangers in dark glasses, with the majestic dignity of controlling beach farm. They are also the aristocrats, the heirs of the Dukes of the Visconti, este and Vitani.
In their eyes, the surfers, the new knights of our time, fighting wind from the South OPA and the mountain wind, the Tramuntana. (Nietzsche wrote that the will to power can Express itself only in the resistance.) Surfers try to stay straight but the curse slips from their tongues, when they fall from their smooth and flat horses.